Average Reviews:
(More customer reviews)Travel guides to an area as rich in lore and attractions as Cape Cod are bound to be highly subjective and cursory, but FROMMER'S GUIDE TO CAPE COD, NANTUCKET & MARTHA'S VINEYARD (authored by Laura M. Reckford) does a remarkable job hitting the highlights. The lodging and restaurant suggestions are minimal, but there are a lot of decent places at which to sleep and dine out there and the compilers have limited space in which to make recommendations from among them all. We were very happy with the FROMMER recommendations we sampled (e.g., Colombo's Café, p. 126; Moby Dick's, p. 197). My spouse would have preferred more pictures (there are only nine or ten pages of photos), but I was quite happy to have the guide be mainly text and maps. The suggested itineraries, based on length of stay and particular interests were very helpful.
Here are some additional, somewhat random notes on the book based on our experiences: By all means, rent bicycles in Falmouth and ride the Shining Sea Bikeway to Woods Hole (p. 96). Even if you're not big into cycling--my family wasn't, but now we might be!--you'll find it an easy and enjoyable ride. Woods Hole's OceanQuest, a 90-minute marine science-oriented boat ride aimed at families is worthwhile, but it's best enjoyed by the 9-13-year old set and their parents (p. 89). Younger children may feel left out, despite the crew's best intentions. Even if you're staying in Barnstable/Hyannis, you might want to take the state-run Martha's Vineyard ferry from Woods Hole where it's only $7.50 for adults, takes only a half-hour, and has multiple departures; a private ferry departing from Hyannis costs over twice as much (more than the book states), takes over three times as long, and has only one departure per day (at time of publication, the ferry had three departures) (pp. 255-256).
FROMMER'S recommendation of Sandy Neck Beach for families was spot on (p. 79), but the site a bit difficult to find. The beach is not marked by signage on Rte. 6A; point your GPS to Sandy Neck Road, then follow the road to its end. The guidebook laments the commercialization of the strip between Hyannis and Harwich Port ("unbridled development run amok," p. 130), but if you have a family and want to play mini-golf, that'll be your destination. In South Yarmouth, you can find a really decent Chinese-Vietnamese restaurant, Thuan Loi, at 1300 Main Street (Rte. 28).
We took up FROMMER'S suggestion for whale watching (the Dolphin Fleet, p. 209) and seal watching (The Beachcomber, p. 166) and were very happy. The whale experience was enhanced by being guided by a marine biologist, and we were treated to the sight of over a dozen whales. The Beachcomber experience had less scientific heft, but we were able to get close to dozens and dozens of seals (even in August). (For the seal adventure, be sure to go at low tide.) From the boat you also get a good view of Chatham, Chatham Light, numerous catboats, and nesting ospreys. For surely the best pizza on the Cape, Italian style, visit Sweet Tomatoes Neopolitan Pizza, located cater-corner from The Beachcomber office at 508 Crowell Road. Before leaving Chatham, be sure to make your way to the town center and walk Main Street for some interesting art, jewelry, candy, gewgaws, and book shops.
As for moderately priced lodging, we stayed at the Anchor Inn on Lewis Bay in Hyannis (1 South Street). The rooms were immaculate, the staff helpful and friendly, and the continental breakfast superb. You can walk to the Nantucket ferry from Anchor Inn. It's not so convenient to Main Street, though it's but a short 5-minute car ride away. We found Hyannis's central location amenable to trips around the Cape.
Finally, a shout out for Parnassus Books in Yarmouth Port (p. 133). Though maddeningly disorganized, once you've accepted the situation, you'll love the treasure hunting. The proprietor, described by FROMMER'S as "gruff," is a self-confessed "eccentric" whom we found quick to laugh and playfully tease my ten-year old--as well as some visiting Republicans.
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Frommer's Cape Cod, Nantucket & Martha's Vineyard 2009 (Frommer's Complete)America's #1 bestselling travel series
Written by more than 175 outspoken travelers around the globe, Frommer's Complete Guides help travelers experience places the way locals do.
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